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Mountain Guru : The Life of Doug Scott

Catherine Moorehead, Stephen Venables
Format: Hardback
Publisher: Birlinn General (Birlinn Ltd)
Published: October 5, 2023
ISBN: 9781780278315
368 pages, Colour & b/w plate sections, maps
Country of publication: United Kingdom


Doug Scott was a legend among mountaineers. His expeditions, undertaken over a period of five decades, are unparalleled achievements. This book describes the drama of them all, from the Himalaya to New Zealand, Patagonia, Yosemite and Alaska. It includes his ‘epic’ on The Ogre, one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb, his ascent of Kangchenjunga without supplementary oxygen and his ascent of Everest in 1975.

Catherine Moorehead also uncovers the man behind the obsessive mountaineer. From his rumbustious youth in Nottingham through two tempestuous marriages to a secure third marriage, she shows how Scott matured in thought and action as his  global reputation increased. In doing so she reveals him to be a clash of opposites, an infuriating monomaniac who took extraordinary risks yet who developed a deep interest in Buddhism. In his early years, he was one of the founders of Nottingham Climbing Club.

Scott spent almost as long as his climbing career in founding and developing Community Action Nepal, providing schools and health posts in remote parts of Nepal, where he is still much revered. Doug Scott died in 2020.

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